I have just returned from an adventurous tour in Greenland. Although I am hardly back, my mind is still there. The tour was unforgetable; I experienced new feelings and longings and became closer to nature than ever before.
I flew in to Narsarsuaq in SouthWest Greenland; from there I sailed to the camp which is in approx 2-3 hours from the airport. That same afternoon I fly-fished for Char close to the camp.
Arctic Char fishing is amazing. There are just so many of them, good sized, 10 lbs or more. There seem to be endless fishing opportunities around the camp.
Next morning I met my guides, Otto and Inuuteq (father and son) who are without doubt among the best hunters in South Greenland. They live from the land and sea. It was amazing to observe them; they are part of their country and know the ocean, land and animal life so well.
They can spot a seal in the ocean miles away and can immediately identify the type, and if it is the right size to shoot. I learned a lot from being with them, and so admire their way of life; how wholesome and kind and amusing they are. They do not speak any English but we managed to communicate.
There are no roads, so all transportation is by boat. In the morning we went scouting for reindeer and quickly came across a small herd. They were too small to hunt so we kept looking, and in less than an hour we found a group of five trophy-size reindeer on a small island. We started chasing them. At first we lost them, then we got them in our sights and I shot the biggest one, which turned out to be the largest trophy deer shot this season. We took the animal to a local slaughterhouse where the skin, meat and horns were processed.
We sailed up to a glacier where Otto and Inuuteq offered to try to get me into position to shoot a seal. There are many seals in Greenland. They are killed for their skin and meat, so all of the animal is used.
Well, trying to shoot a seal from a boat was quite a challenge. I never knew where it is going to pop up, and it only stayed above the surface for a minute or so. I first tried to lie down to shoot but that did not go at all well because the boat was rocking, but when I stood, I managed to get one.
As though taking two animals in one day was not enough, I ended the day by catching a beautiful Cod using an old handline. My hands were cut up, but I did not mind. I was so elated by life and by nature, having enjoyed the best hunting day in my life.
A day I will always remember.
In camp we had a big barbeque cooking the catches of the day: a cod, a seal and a reindeer.
On the days that followed we visited local villages, fished for Char and Cod and tried for some Atlantic Salmon which we saw jumping in the ocean. We will have to return for those.
Greenland has captured my heart. I cannot wait going back.
South Greenland is the perfect destination for nature walks, for observing the wildlife and experiencing the wilderness; marvelling at the the endless fjords, glaciers and the magnificent beauty of Greenland. In summer South Greenland really is green, and, for those who have an iceberg on top of their wishlist of Things to See, there are plenty of icebergs floating around in the deep blue fjords.
About the Author
Harpa Hlin Tordardottir is owner of Iceland Outfitters.