Those who have been there usually describe the Eternity Fjord near Maniitsoq in breathless and awed tones. “One of the most beautiful fjords in all of Greenland” is a common narrative, and I couldn’t wait to experience it for myself.
I was at the harbor in Maniitsoq a little before 8 am for our full-day excursion to the end of eternity and back. The Targas used by Maniitsoq Tour Boats are very comfortable (I’d done the 4hr trip from Nuuk to Maniitsoq the day before), and I was looking forward to my next sailing adventure.
Our Targa boat for the tour
To be honest, the weather wasn’t brilliant, but it did look like it might be OK where we were heading.
Heading north out of Maniitsoq – the blue sky gave us hope
It is quite a long way from Maniitsoq to the entrance to the Eternity Fjord – which is actually much closer to the settlement of Kangaamiut. For 1.5 hours we sailed through the fog as we kept our fingers and toes crossed that it would lift by the time we got there.
The views and glaciers of the Eternity Fjord
Fortunately, we were in luck and broke free from the enshrouding mist just as we turned the first major corner of the fjord.
Phew! I’m glad that’s behind us!
Ahead of us, the sky was blue and the views spectacular! Tall jagged peaks dropping straight into the fjord (this region is a mecca for heli-skiing and ski touring)
Heading deep into the Eternity Fjord
and a glacier in every valley – quite literally!
A glacier in every valley. This was a typical view for the whole length of the fjord
Many were hanging and dead.
Hanging glaciers are those that no longer reach the ocean. They are quite literally left “hanging”
But there were also still active ones that reached the water.
Active glaciers are less common now, thanks to the effects of climate change
The end of the Eternity Fjord
We ended up sailing all the way to the end of the fjord and discovered why it is called the “Eternity Fjord”. It is veeeeeeeery long! But the journey is spectacular and the glacier that blocks the southern arm turned out to be a beautiful spot to have lunch.
Captain’s viewThe end of the watery “road”
We sat here for about an hour, taking far too many photographs and listening to the birds call, the icebergs “bubble”, and the glacier crack. This is an amazing sound – like the sharp retort of a rifle that reverberates off every mountain in the vicinity. It can also herald more exciting things to come!
It is impossible to take too many photosBirds and ice at the end of EternityI love the patterns in the ice of glaciers
We were treated to about half a dozen calving events as we sat there in awe. Although the Eqi Glacier near Ilulissat is the most famous calving glacier in Greenland, I would have to say that the active glaciers in the Eternity Fjord rival that experience. Here – the boat can safely travel much closer to the glaciers, and there are enough events to keep your shutter finger more than ready.
Wow! Note the start of a wave at the very end. Large calving events can cause tsunamis!
More active glaciers in the Eternity Fjord
We eventually had to start making our way back, but we stopped off at several other points along the fjord.
Views towards the end of the Eternity Fjord – still more glaciers
Including another active glacier much further back along the fjord.
Usually, most tours only come as far as this glacier (not all the way to the end of the fjord), but even this shorter trip is absolutely stunning. Again, you get quite close to the glacier, which is still calving and dropping chunks of ice into the fjord.
Birds stirred up by a calving event at the nearer glacier in the Eternity Fjord
Fortunately, the fog mostly held back for the entire trip back to Maniitsoq and we were able to see the incredible peaks of Hamborgerland on our way back.
You should definitely get out on the water with a boat or whale watching tour during the Summer, but Maniitsoq is also one of the best places in Greenland for river fishing, heli-skiing, and ski touring.
Million thanks to our captain Suulut and Maniitsoq Tour Boats for this epic trip!