Two Danes and the Ghosts of the Past

Saturday morning, we set out of the apartment and once again headed to the colonial harbor, where our next adventure would meet us. We were going by boat to the closed settlement Kaneq. This we were looking forward to, as this would bring us out of the fjord, and to more open waters.

The Ghost Village

Boarding Ice Force One, yes it was the boat’s name! we were ready to sail off. It was a bumpy ride due to the tidal wave, but luckily, we are sea strong compared to a fellow traveler who got a little seasick on the twenty-minute boat ride to Kaneq.

When arriving at Kaneq a challenge arose: how would we get off the boat and on to the island? As it was shallow water, the good captain had to find a place between the rocks where we could get off.

Note to self: Watch out for slippery stones – there is a lot!

Kaneq has the nickname ‘ghost village’, and we understand why. Seeing the ruins which once were houses, the abandoned fish factory, and the closed church, one really faced the impact of G50 and G60, which brought urbanization to Greenland.

We had about an hour to explore the ghost village, which offered quite some obstacles and we had to search for our hiking skills. It was slippery and muddy thanks to the previous rainy days. We had to guide our way through rotten stairs, mud, and squeaking houses, it was quite an adventure and experience.

Back at the boat again we stayed outside, to enjoy the sunny ride. We got coffee and enjoyed the fresh air, right until… SPLASH! Being on deck reminded us most of all of being on a water slide in an amusement park. Maya got the cold water splashed upon her, but her spirit was high!

The Footsteps of Hans Egede

Arriving at Håbets Ø, the first place where Hans Egede arrived in 1721. We saw his first house, correction, the remains of it, and a monument. This was all good, but to be honest, we were there for the fantastic view. Climbing the hill, which in danish terms would be a mountain, you got to see the stunning view over the untouched landscape.

Not lots of things to see, but much to eat. Again, we found ourselves with the heads facing the ground looking for crowberries and blackberries. To our luck, it was covering the entire ground, except for a few rocks.

After half an hour we sailed back to Nuuk, where the waves were now calm and more seasick friendly. Coming from this side, it was possible to see the entire city from a different perspective.

As a perfect goodbye to the ghosts of the past, we enjoyed a warm cup of coffee at the Café Toqqorfik– which were very much alive, with people talking and playing board games.